As the world progresses, rapid technology and globalization have given birth to an amalgamation of cultures. While many lose their distinct identity to adapt to the modern world, there are a few cultures that remain standing strong against the changing patterns, securing their uniqueness. One such culture is found amongst the tribe of Maasai in East Africa.
The Maasai People
A quick glance at the indigenous Maasai will help you understand why the Maasai are so popular and iconic in Africa. Covered in red shukas or robes while standing at a great height, the Maasais are typically found in Kenya and Tanzania.
However, another striking aspect to their appearance is the jewellery worn by them. Their attire is adorned with multiple pieces of colourful and intricate jewellery—several necklaces, anklets, earrings, and more. But why is jewellery special to this tribe?
The Maasai and their jewellery
Jewellery is not only meant for adornment and display, especially to the indigenous people. Similarly, in the Maasai culture, jewellery is a symbol of spiritualism and an expression of unique identity. It also depicts the social status of the culture and its community.
In the Maasai culture, the Maasai women are responsible for creating the beaded jewellry while the men look after cattle and the protection of their community. Maasai women use the knowledge of beading to adorn not only themselves but also the men of the tribe. The art of making Maasai beaded jewellery has been practised well before the pre-colonial era, passed down from generation to generation, from one matriarch to another. They sit together, not only beading jewellry, but also sharing folklore, oral traditions, and stories with each other. For Maasai women, the jewellery serves a dual purpose: it not only adorns their exterior but also empowers them with a sense of inner beauty.
The delicate process
The entire process of making Maasai beaded jewellery is free of any machines or tools. It is strictly made by expert hands, using simple materials from the surroundings.
At first, the strings came from Zuku grass or other strong fibers in nature, but today, recycled old grain bags have replaced them. Similarly, beads, which were made from seeds, bones, or ivory, are being replaced by glass beads.
The beading process consumes a lot of time, with each stitch and weave requiring sharp attention to detail. For simpler jewellery pieces such as necklaces and earrings, the beads are stitched individually on strands of wire or thread while keeping in mind the patterns. For bigger statements like collars, belts, and headbands, a strong foundation is first chosen, such as leather or tanned cowhide. The beads are stitched directly onto the base, creating a detailed pattern. Fine wires made of copper or brass are not only used as strings but twisted into various distinct patterns as well.
What do the colours on the beaded jewellery mean?
Each colour found in the beadwork of the Maasai represents a meaning found in their folklore and daily life:
- Red, synonymous with blood, represents bravery. It refers to the cattle the Maasai own, a symbol of status and pride.
- Blue symbolizes the open blue sky often seen over the Maasai Mara, the land where the Maasai reside.
- White simply means purity, just like the color of the cows and the milk they produce.
- Green signifies the nature they live in, the green earth and grass.
- Orange is the colour and warmth, and hospitality of the Maasais.
- Black is a reminder of the struggle the Maasais have been through to sustain their identities and culture, as they continue to do so.
The classification set by the Maasai jewellery
In the Masai community, jewellery determines one’s age set, status, marital status, and much more. The pattern, colour, and size of the jewellery contribute further to this classification. The greater the quantity of beads and the larger the size of the jewellery, the higher the wearer’s social status and wealth.
The Morans, or warriors of the tribe, go through a rigorous initiation ceremony, involving circumcision and extensive training. Once they pass the tests, they are adorned with bright jewellery pieces, predominantly red and black in colour, to highlight their warrior status.
The married Maasai women flaunt beaded collars, usually stacked on top of each other. Also called enkarewa, the collars signify their marital status and maturity. These collars usually showcase the beautiful colour combination of blue and white. After marriage, the woman even changes her beadwork patterns to display her changed status.
Elders of the community wear colourful pieces of jewellery, although less sophisticated but equally beautiful. Elaborate headgears are worn by both men and women. For the former, it represents their strength and masculinity, while the latter wears the headgear to honour their traditions.
Maasai women and economic empowerment
As the sole responsibility for making these pieces of beaded jewellery is of the Maasai women, they have emerged as the breadwinners of the family. They have found a way to benefit and support themselves as well as their families through this artwork. Necklaces, earrings, leather sandals, belts, collars, rings, anklets, and many more accessories contain the Masai beadwork, each carefully woven by hand. These are sold in open Maasai markets as well as in reserves and safari parks where the tribe resides. Earnings through these are directly beneficial to the women. For instance, many young girls and women use these earnings to enroll into schools and access healthcare.
The current scenario
Presently, beaded artwork of the Maasai women is a huge contributor to the tourism industry. In fact, the intricacy of their beaded work has found recognition on international platforms such as the fashion and craft industries. Young contemporary artists in Africa incorporate the Maasai beadwork into their artistry, showcasing a blend of modern and tradition. However, as for the Maasai women, although they enjoy the economic benefits and global attention, they haven’t forgotten the main purpose of beadwork – to continue keeping their culture and heritage alive.
